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Permalink Reply by Russell Vance on February 21, 2011 at 2:44pmWe use a maple tint putty/grain filler which is packed hard into the exposed slot and lacquer over the whole lot once sanded flat - you can still see it if you look but just about everything else shows worse. Superglue (the thick stuff) works well also providedyou have good tight grain maple, use a pipette or fine applicator and sand the surface back just a tad. (test on the 21/22 fret on the treble side if you wish to check the suitability of either method). Rusty.
The problem is the guitar appears to have been refretted in the past and 3 of the fret slots are pretty wide. I Crimped the tang with the SM crimper tool and put some SuperGlue in the slots and pressed them in. I held the fret in place with the press arbor for a few minutes to let the glue dry. 2 of the frets ends keep popping out. I wicked a bit of superglue into the chips to hold them down during sanding, then knocked it back with some 180 grit. By the way, for those playing at home, it’s the little rips from the fret tangs that make the wood filler method look so nasty. I cleaned out the slots with a coping saw blade that just happened to be the perfect width. If you just want to fill the slots, use white glue (like Elmer’s). It’ll dry and stay in the slots forever, no problem. If you’re looking for some color, add a tiny dash of super-fine ground coffee (or cinnamon, ground cloves, etc) to the glue before using it to fill the slots. Important to note, the widened slot areas are only for the treble and bass sides where the fret sits (the majority of the center slots areas are fine @ 0.02’). I was thinking of using some wood glue and sawdust on the tang so that a ’mold’ forms over the problem areas of the fret slot when pressed in. The neck was then finished in polyurethane right up to the edges of the fretboard, with the poly filling in the recesses at the slot ends. You could see the recessed fret ends through the translucent finish. As the frets were not seated to my liking (and were over-arched slightly, with10-inch radii vs a 12-inch radius board!).Permalink Reply by Mike Baker on February 21, 2011 at 3:02pmThanks, Russell. I just did a test on some maple I have here and there’s virtually no staining. I think i’ll test where you suggest once I get the fretting process over, and if I don’t get a lot of staining I’ll go ahead with the CA. If I do, it’s maple tint putty time!Permalink Reply by Brady Anderson on February 22, 2011 at 1:38pmI use ’Blendal’ powder stains (pigment type) mixed with epoxy. These ground powder pigments are available in many colors and are easy to mix and match. Touch up experts use them with a french polish technique for color matching. Mohawk finishing products sells these. I have also used the epoxy puttys you can find at Home Depot and other outlets. I found a blond putty that was a pretty close match to maple. It also can be found in white and you can mix the blond & white for lighter shades. The putty’s I’ve used kick and harden pretty quickly and you have to work fast but they stick well and sand easily. BradyPermalink Reply by Randall Curtis Bowman on February 22, 2011 at 3:53pmFilling Fret Slots Ends Double Diamond
I’ve had luck with adhesive/caulking for countertops; one brand being FormFill.
The stuff is water-based, but dries quick and pretty hard. Topcoats seem to have
no effect on it either, maybe because there’s so little surface exposed. Excess
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cleans off with water, or if that’s a problem, naptha. It’s made in Australia, co. name
here is Unika USA LLC. Good luck.Filling Fret Slots Ends No DepositPermalink Reply by Mike Baker on February 22, 2011 at 4:57pmThanks for all the help, guys. I think I’m going to go with a standard off the shelf maple tinted wood filler.Got some lying around here that’ll do.Filling Fret Slots Ends QuickPermalink Reply by FRANK on February 22, 2011 at 7:59pm
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